Il Censo

VISIT IMPORTER'S WEBSITE
Country of Origin: Italy
Location: Bivona, Sicily
People: Gaetano & Nicoletta Gargano, Owners | Giampiero Bea, Winemaker
Viticulture: Certified Organic

Items

Il Censo 2016 '700' Nero d'Avola, Terre Siciliane IGP Login AG 90 In Stock
Il Censo 2020 'Praruar' Skin Contact Catarratto, Terre Siciliane IGT Login AG 93 In Stock

Il Censo is an estate of 65 hectares situated in Bivona in the south-central zone of Sicily near the town of Palazzo Adriana, the site of the wonderful film, Cinema Paradiso. Gaetano Gargano's family, through his mother’s side (family name: Spoto), has owned Il Censo for over 200 years.

Production over the years was principally of grains and legumes, but there was also a small vineyard planted to Perricone and Malvasia Nera and an old olive grove, the trees of which are now 100 years of age. The name Il Censo literally means "census" but in this instance most likely refers to the obligations of the tenant farmers to pay tribute to the landowning family, a system that dates back to feudal times. The name predates the Spoto time of ownership.

As has been the case so often, much of the agricultural activity at Il Censo was abandoned over the years. Gaetano met Giampiero Bea about 30 years ago and fell in love with the work the Bea family was doing in Montefalco. Ultimately, Gaetano was determined to reinvigorate the farming activity at Il Censo and, with the guidance of Giampiero, began by planting 5 hectares of vineyards split between the white Catarratto grape and the black Perricone variety. The vineyards are situated high on an undulating volcanic outcropping. An additional four hectares have recently been planted, which will come into production between the 2015 and 2017 vintages. This newest planting regime includes Nero d’Avola and Malvasia Nera in addition to Catarratto and Perricone.

The olive grove has also been revived and is now producing about 500 liters of a certified organic, unfiltered extra virgin olive oil, small quantities of which will make its way to the US market.

The entire agricultural enterprise is managed organically (certified in 2014) and biodynamically. Vinification is conducted under the principles developed by Giampiero Bea.

Reviews

  • Il Censo 2020 'Praruar' Skin Contact Catarratto, Terre Siciliane IGT
    Vinous
    Rating: 93 (6/20/2024)
    A deep, cloudy orange color in the glass, the 2020 Catarrato Praruar opens with an airy blend of dried apricots, crushed apples and ground ginger. It's soft-textured and round, with ripe orchard fruits and a cascade of liquid inner florals that coats the palate with youthful tension. The 2020 tapers off wonderfully fresh, tactile and firm, leaving the mouth watering as hints of candied citrus and sour melon resolve on the close. This is a fantastic vintage of Praruar that can be easily enjoyed by fans of orange wines.
  • Il Censo 2016 '700' Nero d'Avola, Terre Siciliane IGP
    Vinous
    Rating: 90 (6/20/2024)
    The 2016 Nero d'Avola 700 is dark and intense, exploding with a burst of mentholated blackberries, grilled herbs and scorched earth, lifted by hints of lavender. This cascades across the palate, opening with an effervescence that tapers off to reveal silken textures and masses of ripe wild berry fruits. The 2016 finishes staining, long and gently tannic, maintaining fantastic freshness as salted licorice tones fade on the close. Not for the faint of heart, the 2016 displays a certain rustic character that may turn off some wine drinkers, but it is the style that Il Censo intends.