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Holiday Happiness: Bonny Doon 2009 'Contra'

The Holidays are the times to make everyone happy. Think about this when making your wine choices and remember to bring something that will suit the whole table.

Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl for Bon Appetit recommends:

Bonny Doon 2009 'Contra'

Why it's Delicious: Earthy, with tobacco and enough tangy cherry fruit to keep it balanced, this big, dark red is made of old-vine Carignan, a notoriously tough and pugnacious grape, then blended with a grab bag of other California hearties, all of which leads to a wine that tastes alive, vital, and robust. 

Why it's Cool: Made by Randall Grahm, who’s the founder of Bonny Doon and the Henry James of
American wine (that is, unspeakably important and superbrainy, and also kind of talky). Contra is Grahm’s attempt to make a serious American table wine: something affordable but big and interesting too. 

Snob Appeal, to Wine Snobs: High. Bringing Randall Grahm wines to a party is like sitting at a college coffee shop with a copy of Nietzsche’s Thus Spake Zarathustra on your lap. You’re deep! 

Snob Appeal, to the Clueless: Low. People used to drinking Kool-Aid wines may find this too intense, like a Justin Bieber fan’s reaction to the Flaming Lips. 

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