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November 09, 2011
Embassy of Argentina - by Jay Miller
The setting was impressive, a splendid old building filled with antiques. The occasion was Roberto de la Mota’s first trip outside of Argentina after a terrible accident in which he lost the use of his legs. Also present was Annabelle Sielecki, owner of Mendel and wife of the Ambassador. Senor de la Mota was the original winemaker at Cheval des Andes, the Argentina outpost of Cheval Blanc and now winemaker/partner in Mendel in Mendoza.
Malbec is what Mendoza is all about so it’s easy to overlook Mendel’s superb white wine. The 2009 Semillon received some barrel fermentation. Smooth textured, fragrant, and with the oak nicely integrated, it paired nicely with the Calamari and Octopus salad.
Argentina does lamb well but I would have died for a grilled Argentina free-range ribeye to accompany the Mendel reds. The 2008 Unus is deep purple, mouth-filling, ripe, and rich. The 2007 Unus strikes me as a bit more structured and lengthy but not as extracted and layered as the 2006 Unus. The 2005 Unus is displaying a bit more elegance as well as impeccable balance. The 2004 Unus displays the greatest minerality and plenty of spice. These are all youthful wines that will easily enjoy lifelines of over 20 years. The scores next to the wines are what I gave them in formal reviews published in The Wine Advocate. On this evening, my scores for all of the wines were higher, a clear demonstration of the effects of context, terrific company and a splendid setting.
It was great to see Roberto de la Mota in such fine spirits. I look forward to visiting the Bodega in September, 2011. As for Annabelle Sielecki, she too is back in Argentina since her husband received a promotion to a very high position in the government.
I would also be remiss in not giving the chef sufficient credit for a beautifully prepared dinner. It all came together very nicely on this evening.
Food:
Calamari and Octopus Salad
Anchovies and Green Peppers over a Chess Board
Lamb a la Patagonia
Assortment of Argentinean desserts
Wine:
2009 Mendel Semillon 90pts
2008 Mendel Unus 92pts
2007 Mendel Unus 94pts
2006 Mendel Unus 93pts
2005 Mendel Unus 94pts
2004 Mendel Unus NR
Note to Readers about the Hedonist's Gazette
The abbreviated, spontaneous, and visceral tasting notes and numerical ratings in this section should not be confused with professional, structured tasting notes from specific peer group tastings or cellar tastings. The Hedonist's Gazette notes emerge from casual get-togethers, with the food and company every bit as important as the wines. I do not consider these tasting comments as accurate or as pure in a professional sense, but they are part of a wine's overall record. In short, focus, so critical in a professional tasting without food or other distractions, is clearly on a different level in such "fun gatherings." - Robert M. Parker, Jr.
