December 02, 2010
So Damn Pretty: Gaston Huet 2009 by Neal Martin

It recently came to my attention that I had failed, and failed miserably I might add, to post my tasting notes with respect to Domaine Gaston Huet’s 2009s. This is especially unforgivable since they represent outstanding alumni, but by delayed publication I am able to include a tasting note of the Cuvée Constance that was taken at a later date. The 2009 vintage offers the full panoply of styles that for want of a better word…are just so damn pretty.

The suite of dry Vouvrays should not be overlooked for the sweeter styles, if only because I believe they offer a better, more flexible complement to cuisine. The Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec 2009 is a great way to start with citrus peel and dandelion on the nose, the palate crisp and taut with a twist of sour lemon on the finish that left the palate tingling and demanding where the plate of mussels had got to? The Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2009 is on equal par, not quite as complex on the nose but demonstrating great precision on the palate and stupendous weight on the finish. I was not quite so taken with the Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec 2009 since it lacked the tension I like to see in my Loire Chenin Blanc and I felt it lacked the same typicité on the nose compared to the Le Haut-Lieu or the Le Mont Sec.

I did not try any Demi-Sec, so moving onto the sweet stuff, the Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 2009 has a delectable bouquet of apricot, orange blossom and a hint of rosewater, the palate beautifully balanced with a tactile, almost sherbet sensation as if it fizzed on the tongue (and no, there did not appear to be any secondary fermentation going on.) It is certainly a pretty little thing. Similarly, the Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 2009 is just so, so pretty, showing a more volume in the mouth and once again beautifully balanced. But my personal pick is the sensational Vouvray 1er Trie Le Mont Moelleux 2009 that is blessed with an entrancing bouquet of dried honey and almond, all with wonderful delineation, as if one is peering down into the vineyard itself. The palate is succinctly balanced with touches of dried apricot and hazelnut, as if Noel Pinguet had blended a little Meursault Perrières into his Le Mont.
Stunning! Now, go buy some.
The Vouvray 1er Trie Clos du Bourg 2009 was more laconic on the nose, perhaps cowed by the Le Mont Moelleux, although the palate is round and generous with hints of acacia honey and fresh ginger on the long aftertaste.

Finally, the Vouvray Cuvée Constance 2009, the Domaine’s most revered release that debuted with the mesmerizing 1989. Was it unfair to taste the nascent ’09 against that sensational debut at Handford’s 21st Anniversary tasting? It is a testament to the ’09 that it held its own against the ’89. The aromatics took a little coaxing and I afforded ten minutes of coaxing before I was rewarded with a heavenly bouquet of fresh pineapple, kumquat, dried apricot and a touch of oyster shell. The palate is vibrant, tightly wound and supremely focused with hints of quince towards the viscous finish. I’m sorry, but this was too delicious to spit out and what the hell, it was the final wine of the tasting.

All that is left for me to say is that these represent outstanding values considering their complexity and longevity.

These wines were tasted at Bordeaux Index, the Cuvée Constance at Handford Wines.

Tasting Notes

2009 Gaston Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 91
The Le Mont Sec does not have the same complexity as the Haut-Lieu Sec, with more apricot and orange –blossom, though not the same level of precision. There is certainly more fruit character on the palate compared to the Haut-Lieu Sec with lovely dried apricot, lemon curd and a touch of vanilla. It displays superb weight on the finish and length with lime cordial and sour lemon on the aftertaste. Just a whisker from the Le Haut-Lieu Sec. Drink now-2018+ Tasted August 2010.

2009 Gaston Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec 88
This is a little bashful on the nose at first, with touches of cooking apple, pear, a hint of watercress and cucumber. There is something quite Antipodean about this Chenin Blanc. The palate has a fresh and lively entry with orange zest, lemon peel and very fine minerality. Nice poise here, more like the Haut-Lieu than the Le Mon Sec. Again, that lovely bitter lemon/sherbet finish although it just needs some more persistency. Drink now-2016+

2009 Gaston Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux 93
The Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux has a very pretty, feminine nose with apricot, rosewater and orange-blossom. Very fragrant but still a little bashful. The palate is very well balanced with subtle touches of orange zest and an almost like-like tactile sensation, as if this Vouvray ‘fizzes’ on the tongue. Perhaps it just lacks a little poise on the finish, but very harmonious and coquettish in its youth. A little ingénue. Drink now-2020+ Tasted August 2010.

2009 Gaston Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 94
The Le Mont Moelleux is less generous on the nose than the Le Haut-Lieu, with touches of melon, dried apricot, almond and a touch of passion fruit. The palate is quite rounded in texture with touches of sour lemon, apricot, passion fruit and Kaffir lime. There is an attractive fullness to this Moelleux, good volume although it clams up on the finish. There is such enormous potential here. Drink now-2020+ Tasted August 2010.

2009 Gaston Huet Vouvray 1er Trie Le Mont Moelleux 95
This has a beautiful nose with dried honey, almond and orange-blossom that is just beautifully perfumed with wonderful definition. The palate is very well balanced with touches of dried apricot, almond, a hint of hazelnut and orange zest, with nice build towards the finish and great persistency with apricot and white peach. Superb.  Drink now-2025+ Tasted August 2010.

2009 Gaston Huet Vouvray 1er Trie Clos du Bourg 94
This is quite reticent on the nose so I leave this for few minutes in the glass, but I feel it does not ‘get motoring’ like the Le Mont Moelleux. Touches of pear skin, peach and apple-blossom. The palate is rounded and generous, very good weight, perhaps needing a little more tension a la Le Mont but good persistency yet again towards the finish with hints of acacia honey and a little ginger on the aftertaste. Lovely. Drink now-2025+ Tasted August 2010.

2009 Domaine Gaston Huet Vouvray Moelleux Cuvée Constance 97
This is a brilliant Cuvée Constance that may well rank as their best since the immortal ’89. The bouquet demands coaxing from the glass, but suddenly blossoms with tinned pineapple, Kaffir lime, kumquat, clear honey and oyster shells. The palate displays a vibrant entry that roots feet to the floor, brilliant definition and poise, very intense and focused, almost edgy with a harmonious honeycomb and quince-tinged finish that caresses the palate. Tempting to pop this early, but it will last for years. Drink now-2030+ Tasted October 2010.