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September 09, 2010
Recommended: Muscadet
Because September has arrived, which means full-bore oyster season, let's dwell for a moment on Muscadet, the Loire's minerally wonder wine. How such a neutral grape as Melon de Bourgogne can become an expression of site and depth is a tribute to the soils and determination of the farmers of the Nantais.
Oysterwise, there are plenty of other options, of course. Sauvignon Blanc has been a rising star, though when we recently considered diving into the realms of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume as part of a larger Loire consideration, we realized that Sauvignon Blanc is, price-wise, in an odd place.
For Muscadet, 2009 is one of those wonder vintages, beautifully ripe, enough so to win over skeptics. Top producers made dramatic and age-worthy bottles in 2009, words not generally attached to a wine often destined for a simple carafe. So these remain some of the best values in wine. Enjoy as you seek out a long-awaited dose of sun.
2009 Michel Delhommeau Cuvee Harmonie Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie
Michel and Nathalie Delhommeau get this cuvee from a single parcel of older vines grown on lava-based rock. A lean, steely profile, with its leesiness showing at the end amid a burst of ripe guava. The mineral notes are chalky and salty, and there's an immediate refreshment to it. (Also try Michel Delhommeau 2009 Muscadet 'St. Vincent')
Article by Jon Bonné for SFGate.com
