September 18, 2008
Another big bang for Ole Imports - IWC 0908
<strong>International Wine Cellar - by Stephen Tanzer Issue Sept - Oct 2008<br /><br />89 2007 Vinos Sin-Ley G-2 Afinus Montsant</strong> <br /> ($9; 100% Garnacha, from 70-year-old vines) Bright ruby-red. Spicy raspberry and cherry on the nose, with subtle graphite and herbal qualities. Sweet red berry flavors are sharpened by baking spices and minerals, reminding me of pinot noir. A light-bodied, silky wine that is remarkably lithe and precise for this price point, and the finish is sweet, precise and long. I'd love to see this up against a number of $30 pinots, from anywhere. <br /> <br /> <strong>89 2007 Vinos Jeromin Zestos Madrid </strong><br /> ($8; a 50/50 blend of tempranillo and garnacha) Deep, bright red. Fresh red berries and baking spices on the nose, with a suave floral quality adding complexity. Light-bodied raspberry and blackberry flavors are pure and straightforward, with no obvious tannins or rough edges. A late note of licorice lingers on the clean, juicy finish. A steal at this price. <br /> <br /> <strong>89 2007 Vinos Jeromin Zestos Especial Madrid </strong><br /> ($10; 85% tempranillo and 15% syrah) Vivid red. Spicy raspberry and cherry aromas are strikingly fresh and pure. Lively and incisive on the palate, with brisk flavors of wild strawberry, raspberry and cherry preserves. Minerals kick in on the finish, which is tangy, precise and quite long. These vines are reportedly more than 60 years old. (Ole Imports, New Rochelle, NY) <br /> <br /> <strong>93 2005 Hornillo Ballesteros Mibal Seleccion Ribera del Duero</strong> <br /> ($35) Saturated red color. Intensely mineral nose displays dark cherry, cassis, iron, graphite and baking spices. Deep and chewy, with primary dark fruit flavors and smoky Asian spice qualities. Really stains the palate, and there's no excess fat here. Becomes livelier with air and finishes with persistent sweetness and spiciness. Very nicely balanced, and built to age. <br /> <br /> <strong>90 2007 Hermanos del Villar Oro de Castilla Verdejo Rueda</strong> <br /> ($14) Pale gold. Vibrant, mineral-driven aromas of lemon, grapefruit and quince, with subtle anise and leesy notes adding depth. A precise, vibrant midweight, offering refreshingly bitter citrus and pear skin flavors and bracing minerality. This is surprisingly deep for such a nervy wine, and would be great with richer shellfish dishes. (Ole Imports, New Rochelle, NY) <br /> <br /> <strong>92 2006 Bodegas Licinia Licinia Madrid</strong> <br /> ($50; 40% syrah and 30% each of cabernet sauvignon and tempranillo) Opaque purple. Impressively complex, sexy bouquet of black raspberry, blueberry, licorice and violet; the syrah is really showing today. Bright red and dark berry flavors are focused and pure, with a zesty undertone of smoky minerals and candied flowers. An elegant, precise wine that combines power and delicacy, and finishes with persistent minerality. (Ole Imports, New Rochelle, NY)
