Dolcetto is a wine of modesty, the most humble of the three major red grapes of Italy's Piedmont (Nebbiolo and Barbera being the other two). Yet winemakers there don't get by on Barolo and Barbaresco alone. Early-ripening and plump with fruit, they make Dolcetto to enjoy in the moment - just right for a plate of the egg pasta known as tajarin. Dolcetto is often associated with softness, but a good one has enough guts to command its place at the Piedmontese table.

Still, many wines from 2005 and 2006 brought me disappointment. Too much ripeness, too much alcohol, too little distinction. Mercifully, 2007 and 2008 - the former riper, the latter leaner - have been far more auspicious, providing wines with classic dark fruit and dusty tannins.

These (below) are versatile winter wines, right for anything from a ragu to a burger. That has always been Dolcetto's charm, and it's currently on display.

2007 Camerano Dolcetto d'Alba: A beautiful, classic example from this Barolo-based house, with smoky, toasted-fennel accents on a ripe blueberry nose. There's a knot of tannin on the palate that makes it more energetic and chewy. Give it a bit of air. (Importer: A Singular Selection/USA Wine West)

2007 Anna Maria Abbona Maioli Dogliani DOCG

2008 Cavallotto Vigna Scot Dolcetto d'Alba

2007 Elio Grasso Dei Grassi Dolcetto d'Alba

2007 Bartolo Mascarello Dolcetto d'Alba

2008 Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Roussot Dolcetto d'Alba

2007 Sottimano Bric Del Salto Dolcetto d'Alba

Article written by Jon Bonné for SFGate.com.