August 07, 2014
Who is the Horse? Who is the Plow? Interview with Suzanne Hagins

Horse & Plow Winery is a love story. It’s the story of two enterprising and idealistic wine folks who fell for each other and decided to make wine together, while also pursuing their own labels (plus marriage and parenthood in the meantime). It’s the story of deeply passionate winemaking that touches every aspect, from field to cellar. Organic, biodynamic, and miniscule production—Horse & Plow is a labor of love for Suzanne Hagins and Chris Condos, who met while Suzanne was working for a wine distributor and Chris was selling his wine. Based out of Sebastopol, they collaborate with the best organic growers up and down the North Coast to make a lineup of affordable, food-friendly wines with serious heart.

Their organic ethos is enforced by completely natural and conscientious winemaking. No synthetic nutrients or GMOs get anywhere near their wine. Sulfites are kept low, and everything is vegan. They package their juice with as much care as they make it—their labels display intricate graphite botanical drawings and landscape paintings designed by their family members, Florance Condos and Alan Crockett.

We sat down with Suzanne and picked her brain about what they do, how they got started, and how they make their beautifully balanced whites.

Cream: Can you provide a little background on how you and Chris started working together? Your winemaking philosophy?

SH: Chris is a California boy, I was raised in the South. He went to Davis, I worked in restaurants. I left Charleston, South Carolina, for my first harvest at Comte Armand in Pommard in 1998. Upon my return, I worked for a small wine distributor until I could make the move to California to pursue winemaking. Two weeks before my move to Sonoma County, I had one last supplier workwith, and it was Chris with his Vinum wines! We got married a few years later. When we started Horse & Plow in 2008, we wanted something we could build and grow that focused on organic/biodynamic viticulture and natural wines. Our philosophies are similar: we want to make balanced, fruit-driven wines that speak of where they were grown; but our approach is very different. Chris went to Davis, as well as having a B.S. in Plant Ecology, so he is very scientific. I worked in restaurants and learned in the cellar, so I take a more sensory approach. We complement each other, I think.

Cream: What’s your general approach to white wine? How do you pull out the best characteristics from each grape? Also, what do you look for in the blending process and how does that work?

SH: Our general approach to white wine (red wine too) is to be true to the varietal character, showcase the fruit, and keep balanced acidity and alcohol. We vary the winemaking protocol by varietal to achieve that goal. For example, we ferment the Riesling in stainless steel to preserve its inherent minerality. We ferment the Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris in neutral French oak barrels, which enhance the round mouthfeel—without the dominating influence of new wood. We keep all components of our Farmstead blends separate during fermentation, and assemble the blends the following spring.

When blending, we look to build on the individual wines; achieve a complete, yet unique, wine from its different components. The blend of Pinot Blanc, Gris, and Riesling—so common in Alsace—is a dream to assemble because the “bones” of each are so aromatic and complex! Pinot Blanc is very rich and round (with less acidity), and is usually the base of the wine. The Pinot Gris adds lovely floral aromatics and great acidity, and the Riesling brings minerality. While we do enjoy keeping a few barrels aside for single varietal wines, the blend is a wine we really enjoy creating from the sum of its parts.

Cream: Can you talk a bit about the vineyards you work with to source the grapes?

SH: Our 2014 Farmstead White is actually 100-percent Napa-grown fruit. The Pinot Blanc comes from the Block House Vineyard in Yountville, and is farmed by Andrew Hoxey. He is a fourth-generation winegrower and farms 635 acres organically in Napa Valley. He possesses a wealth of information, is very approachable and committed to the best grapes possible.

The Pinot Gris and Riesling are grown by Robert Sinskey Vineyards at their Three Amigos Vineyard in Napa Carneros. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically, in addition to the organic certification, and their close proximity to the Bay keeps maturation slow and acidity high. These farming techniques and location result in really complex and flavorful grapes.

Cream: For a long time, California whites meant buttery Chardonnay. What do you think identifies the new garde of California whites (or is that too broad a category?)?

SH: It is wonderful that so many unique varietals and styles are being produced and appreciated; it is a great time to be making wine! Other times have been harder, when buttery Chard was queen, Chris was making his “Chard-no-way” Chenin Blanc! Fighting the good fight! Today’s wine drinker is quite educated and adventurous, willing to try and seeking out different wines. That allows us, as winemakers, to make wines we believe in (and want to drink ourselves) that are balanced, food friendly, and explore our emerging terroir.

Cream: Any exciting new projects for Horse & Plow?

SH: Yes! We will be making hard cider from our local West County apples.

Cream: Do you use any unique techniques or equipment in vineyard or cellar that we might enjoy geeking out about?

SH: We are always experimenting and pushing our comfort zone. From whole cluster to extended macerations, native yeasts, carbonic fermentations, and sans soufré wines, we enjoy looking for different expressions from the grapes. We often ferment one lot in several ways, and see how it turns out! Sometimes we strike out, sometimes it’s a home run- but it’s never boring!