Domaine du Clos des Rocs
Bergman's Bourgogne: One Monopole - Three Cuvées
Pouilly-Loché is a small appellation covering a mere 32 hectares, of which nearly 30% belongs to Domaine du Clos des Rocs. The AOC dates back to 1940 and enjoys a strong reputation locally in the Mâconnais. Pouilly-Loché remains relatively unknown in the United States.
The soils are characterized by iron-rich clay and limestone, often with up to 30 centimeters of dense limestone pebble dispersion at the surface. The resulting wines are leaner than their counterparts in neighboring Pouilly-Fuissé and carry a hint of earth. They are quite rich in mineral with enough fruit density to properly support the robust structural elements.
Domaine du Clos des Rocs has 8.6 hectares of vines across seven parcels. Principal holdings are in Pouilly-Loché; plots in Mâcon-Loché and Pouilly-Fuissé round out the holdings. No chemical products are used in the vineyard. Olivier Giroux is committed to organic processes from start to finish, though he has chosen not to pursue certification. All grapes are manually harvested before a long pressing, followed by alcoholic fermentation using only indigenous yeasts. The élévage varies by cuvée and is detailed in the specific descriptions of each of the wines.
Wine Advocate 8/2018
"The young and ambitious Olivier Giroux purchased the Domaine du Clos des Rocs in 2002, an 8.8-hecate estate that includes over six hectares within the small but complex 32-hectare appellation of Pouilly-Loché. Organic conversion began in 2006. Manual harvest is followed by lengthy pressing and élevage in tank, demi-muid and barrel, with minimal percentages of new oak. The wines are pure, limpid and fleshy, with succulent balancing acids. Giroux contends that the character of Pouilly-Loché approaches most closely the wines of Chaintré that are entitled to the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC, a persuasive argument. This is an excellent address that comes highly recommended. What's more, it will be exciting to follow Giroux's progress over the years to come."