|Julian Haart 2016 '1,000L' Riesling (Dry), Mosel||Login||—|
|Julian Haart 2015 'Moselle' Riesling (Dry), Mosel||Login||MFW 90||<1 Case|
The wine world took notice with Julian Haart’s first vintage in 2011. With only a few years under his belt, tremendous buzz still continues while this young and extremely talented winemaker sharpens his skills and obtains new vineyards. Described as serious, thoughtful, detail-oriented and relentless, Julian will be a very, very important grower for the Mosel. As Vom Boden’s Stephen Bitterolf writes, “2015 is a revelatory, breakthrough vintage for Julian. As good as Julian’s first four vintages were, his 2015s are simply on another level. They are pure energy incarnate.”
Julian Haart’s “real” interest in wine came when he dropped out of school to learn to cook. (It is hard to imagine he didn’t have wine in his blood sooner knowing his uncle is Theo Haart of Reinhold Haart.) Julian worked at GästeHaus Klaus Erfort, which is one of the finest restaurants in Germany. The kitchen led him to wine and very quickly, Julian decided to completely immerse himself into wine. His roster of wine apprenticeships is nothing short of unbelievable: Egon Müller, Klaus Peter Keller, Heymann-Löwenstein (winemaker Rheinhard Löwenstein), and Emrich-Schönleber (winemaker Werner Schönleber). That’s something like learning to draw under da Vinci, Dürer, Ingres and Picasso. It’s pretty serious. Before going on his own, he and friend Andreas Adam from AJ Adam split the purchase of an old-vine, terraced parcel of Goldtröpchen. Until 2011, Haart's surname had been on the back label.
Today, Julien owns small parcels of old vines in the Piesporter Schubertslay (ungrafted vines up to 110 years old) and a vertigo-inspiring chunk of the Wintricher Ohligsberg (50-year-old vines). He also leases some serious parcels from his Uncle Theo. The hierarchy at Haart is based on Burgundy. There is the appellation-level "Mosel Riesling" (read: Bourgogne), the village-level Wintricher and Piesporter and the single-vineyard, Grand Cru bottlings Ohligsberg and Goldtröpchen. It is important to note that the village-level wines come from serious parcels that are every bit Grand Cru! The Piesporter is sourced from the Goldtröpchen and from vines in the Schubertslay (this tiny parcel includes vines planted in 1905); the Wintricher is sourced 100% from the towering blue-slate wall that is the Ohligsberg.
Julian Haart’s wines showcase super-pure fruit that shrieks across the palate with a sharply delineated acidity. The overall style is clearly a type of Mosel-homage to Keller. Pulverized slate, polished to a fine dust, coats everything. These are Rieslings of consequence. If you can find a bottle, any bottle, watch out.
Lars Carlberg: A Fuder of Mosel Wine
Mosel Fine Wines 10/2016
"The hugely successful 2015 collection crafted by Julian Haart sets yet again a new benchmark at this young Estate (it only started in 2010 - We reviewed its first wines back in Issue No 16). The wines have great energy, intensity and purity, and perfectly combine the best of 2015: maturity and freshness. Yet, they all remain true to their style. The fruity-styled Kabinett are as light as water, yet full of complexity. The Ohligsberg Kabinett, alas only available in tiny quantities and only in magnums, is one of the best in 2015. The dry-tasting wines while still on the racy side at the moment (they will need some cellaring to fully blossom) are full of promise. The Schubertslay Auslese is pure liquid gold. Overall, the whole collection is a stand out. Anyone who can find one of these gems should not hesitate one second and take the plunge. They are THAT good!"
Wine Advocate 3/2016
"Shooting star Julian Haart offers an outstanding collection of 2014 Rieslings, although his style has slightly changed since he ferments at warmer temperatures of greater than 20° Celsius (not as cool as classic Mosel Rieslings). This, says Haart, results in "more terroir than fruit-driven Rieslings." Indeed, I thought of Klaus Peter Keller's Rheinhessen Rieslings, who is a good and probably influential friend of Julian Haart and was once his trainee."
Wine Advocate 4/2013
Young Julian Haart – for considerable background on whom, consult my report on his auspicious 2010 debut in issue 199 – possesses impressively-situated old vines in three sites, one famous and two that deserve far greater renown (which indeed they enjoyed a century ago). While total volume here is still tiny, happily, a minuscule slice of that is now allocated for the U.S.; and property in Wintrich and Piesport rented from an uncle will enable Haart, beginning in 2013, to farm considerably augmented acreage – enough to support him as a full-time wine grower."
Wine Advocate 2/2012
"Young Julian Haart – who already has his name on bottles of Riesling from the Piesporter Laychen (in Goldtropfchen) that he cultivates, harvests, and vinifies together with Andreas Adam (a wine I shall for convenience continue to review under Adam’s name) – acquired on January first of last year parcels in Wintricher Ohligsberg (planted with a 45 year old selection) and Piesporter Schubertslay. To say that Haart – who is a consistent collaborator with Klaus Peter Keller as well as with Andreas Adam, and whose sensitive approach inter alia to the uses of cask and lees owe much to those mentors – has ambitious goals, would be putting it mildly. But the same can clearly be said for claims that he has diligence and talent! Not many wine careers can have started off on a more superlative level than Haart’s, yet from my several conversations with him I am convinced that his perfectionism goes hand in hand with rigorous self-criticism that should preclude success going to his head. Hopefully, despite their small production, the wines of this member of the prevalent Haart family will show up stateside sooner rather than later."