Jean-Philippe Fichet 2017 Meursault Blanc, Les Chevalieres, AOC

Jean-Philippe Fichet 2017 Meursault Blanc, Les Chevalieres, AOC

Item Number: 13235

UPC: None

Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Sub Region: Cote de Beaune
Appellation/AVA: Meursault AOC
Estate Grown Wine: Yes
Vineyard Designation: Chevalieres
Vintage: 2017
Grape(s): 100% Chardonnay
Type: Wine - White
Bottle Size: 750 ml
Pack: 12
Closure: Cork
Alc by Vol(%): 13.5
Viticulture: Practicing Organic
Soil Type: Limestone and clay, with lots of limestone pebbles

Viticulture Notes: Chevalières soil is extremely stony with very little top soil. Jean-Philippe practices lutte raisonnée or "reasoned fight." He eschews chemical fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides.

Vinification Notes: Grapes are manually harvested. Fermentation occurs naturally in French barrels with native yeast and no lees stirring. The Chevalières spends 12+ months in barrel (very little new), plus 3-6 months in tank. Malolactic fermentation occurs in the barrel.

Tasting Notes: This wine, characteristically, is delicate, supple, racy, elegant, mineral and fresh to the mouth. Then, it opens up to a great wealth of flavors. It is silky, delicate, elegant and feminine.

Vintage Notes by Wine Advocate 1/4/2019: "Jean-Philippe Fichet is rightly pleased with his 2017 range, a portfolio that exemplifies his crisp, invigorating style, without any of the old-school asperity that makes some of his frosted 2016s. These are pure, tangy, acid-driven wines, and I suspect that it's only because Fichet has no premiers crus in Meursault that he has attained less celebrity than several other famous growers who operate in a similar stylistic register, currently very much in vogue. Following the refrain along the Côte, Fichet reported a comparatively uneventful growing season, an early harvest and lower-than-anticipated yields of juice in Chardonnay. Reflecting on a career that stretches back to the 1981 vintage—the oldest wine I've tasted from Fichet was a still excellent 1983 Meursault, drunk last summer—he articulated sentiments to the effect that nature both gives and takes away, and her vicissitudes must be accepted."

Vintage Notes by Burghound 6/10/2019: "Jean-Philippe Fichet runs this 7.5 ha domaine and observed that '2017 has turned out to be a pleasant surprise as I really didn't expect the quality to be as good as it is. I say this because the growing season was very warm and relatively dry and usually that is a pretty good recipe to produce heavy whites that lack good terroir transparency. In the very last part of August we noticed that alcohols were climbing and acidities falling so we scrambled to get the word out to our pickers that we were going to start on the 1st of September. We were able to pick quickly as the fruit was really about as clean as you could hope for. Alcohols were good without being high coming in as they did in the 12.5% to 13% range. Acidities were acceptable and the post-malo pHs were also reasonable so as I say, I was really agreeably surprised by how refreshing and transparent the whites are. In the end I would describe the quality as very good if not genuinely great.'"

Reviews

  • Vinous
    Rating: (92-94) (9/1/2018)

    Calcaire-driven scents of musky lime zest and crushed stone; one can smell the tension! Very precise and pure but laid-back, conveying a penetrating, savory character to its dense, fully ripe flavors of green fruits, flowers and minerals. Impressively dense, silky and ripe, this very juicy wine features a resounding finish with terrific rising floral lift and mineral energy. The acidity here is technically on the low side but the wine's pungent minerality gives it serious verve. These 60-year-old vines produced a full crop of 55 hectoliters per hectare in 2017, according to assistant Hervey. A remarkable village wine in the making, and a wine that will probably call for five or six years of bottle aging.
  • The Wine Advocate
    Rating: (91 - 93) (1/4/2019)

    Aromas of lemon oil, white flowers and a light touch of oak vanillin introduce the 2017 Meursault Les Chevalières, a medium-bodied, chiseled wine that's the most tensile and incisive of all Fichet's lieux-dits, displaying a firm, tight-knit core and a long, mouthwatering finish.
  • Burghound
    Rating: 89-92 (6/10/2019)

    A discreet touch of wood sets off equally cool, pure and airy if restrained aromas of citrus and essence of green apple. The more mineral-driven though less seductive middle weight flavors terminate in a youthfully austere, chiseled and sneaky long finish. This isn't especially dense but it is a classic rendition of the vineyard.