Wine in the spotlight: L'ecole 2009 Walla Voila Chenin Blanc

One of the grapes widely planted during the 1970s-era expansion of Washington vineyards was chenin blanc. By and large these vineyards went into to most fertile Yakima valley and Columbia basin sites, were heavily watered, and produced large crops. The chenin blancs that resulted were off-dry, fruity and simple, quaffable white wines with no aspirations to the greatness of which the grape is capable.

Chenin blanc from the Loire valley in particular is as versatile as the greatest rieslings. It produces complex, ageworthy wines, in a full spectrum from bone dry to achingly sweet. Honey, flowers, stone and herbal elements combine with the stone fruits that are the core of these wines. Vouvrays have a tangy tension, a lovely dance of sugar and acid, that makes them especially vivid.

Why then can’t Washington chenins rise to such heights? Well, I’m not certain that they can’t. But economics – basically the price that consumers are willing to pay for a bottle of chenin blanc – trickle back to the price that winemakers can pay to growers, and have kept the wines as cheap and cheerful as ever, while production figures have sharply declined.

It’s a self-feeding downward spiral, much like that which until recently has confined Washington rieslings to the role of entry-level, tasting room pours. For riesling to break free of such limitations has taken over a decade of hard work, the collaboration of global authorities such as Ernst Loosen, and a quality push from visionary leaders, notably Allen Shoup (Long Shadows), Ted Baseler (Ste. Michelle Wine Estates), and Nicolas Quillé (Pacific Rim).

Poor old chenin has no such prospects. But one wine consistently proves the potential. L’Ecole No 41 has been producing a chenin blanc with the playful name of Walla Voila since 1987. Around 1500 cases have been made annually, modeled on Vouvray, but with the brightness of Washington fruit.

The grapes come exclusively from a Rattlesnake Hills vineyard planted in 1979. The Walla Voila has been getting progressively drier with each vintage, benefiting from improved vineyard management, which allows for more delicate aromas of honeysuckle, and flavors of lime, sweet lemon, orange and pineapple.

The newest version, from the 2009 vintage, ramps up production to over 2500 cases, and drops the price to $14. This is just one percent residual sugar and 13.5% alcohol, with lush, fruit-driven aromas that capture the complexity of the grape – rarely seen in domestic chenin blancs. Ripe apples, spice, hints of honey and caramel, and a lovely, persistent floral overtone are some of the highlights.

All of the white wines from L’Ecole are fragrant, fruitful, and fresh. But I am especially fond of this Walla Voila, because it offers clear proof that chenin blanc need not be relegated to also-ran status in the U.S.