Jean-Philippe Fichet

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Country of Origin: France
Location: Meursault
People: Jean-Philippe Fichet, Owner & Winemaker
Viticulture: Practicing Organic

Items

Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Bourgogne Blanc AOC Login BH 88 In Stock
Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc AOC Login BH 87-89 AG (88-90) AG 89 In Stock
Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc, Gruyaches, AOC Login BH 89-91 AG (91-93) AG 91+ <1 Case
Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc, Les Chevalieres, AOC Login BH 87-90 AG (92-94) AG 92 In Stock
Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Referts, AOC Login BH 90-93 AG (90-93) AG 91 In Stock

The Magic Within: More than any of his peers, Fichet is testing the limits of transparency, to find the very soul of Meursault's terroirs. It was Meursault's destiny to have its soils revealed in this way: their intense stoniness is magnified by an exceptionally low water table, forcing the vines' roots deep underground.

Fichet's work is a direct outgrowth of a breakthrough that happened three decades ago: René Lafon's decision to bottle his Meursault Clos de la Barre on its own. For a century before, such a thing had been unheard of, as only the most famous vineyards—the premier crus—were ever bottled individually; everything else was blended into Meursault villages. Lafon's innovation not only proved that a lieu-dit (a non-classified vineyard) could say something profound, it drew attention to Meursault's incredible soils—paving the way for the later accomplishments of Jean-Françoise Coche, Jean-Marc Roulot and, of course, René Lafon's son Dominique. But Fichet has carried Lafon's revolution to another level— studying every square inch of earth and stone in his domaine, to make Meursault's purest set of single-climate wines.

Purity & Passion: Even if uneconomical, Fichet would rather produce a very small amount of wine from his best sites than to lose their unique character in a blend. In 1998, his Meursault-Tesson vines yielded little more than four barrels; anyone else would have blended so little wine into their village cuvée. But the Tesson was so magical that Fichet bottled it separately, exclusively in magnum.

Just as Jean-Marc Roulot did until recently, Fichet has flown largely under the world's radar. He began as a grower in 1981 but was forced to rebuild his domaine from scratch in the 1990s, having lost all his best fruit sources—including a piece of Meursault- Perrières—for lack of long-term contracts. But he learned from this experience. By 2000, he had used carefully negotiated long-term fermage and mètayage agreements to create an extraordinary new domaine, brimming with exceptional sites.

No Short Cuts: Fichet's methods reflect his philosophy: he is famously meticulous and abhors taking short cuts. His low yields, the foremost key to quality, are achieved through severe winter pruning rather than by green harvesting. And he believes his wines' expressiveness is enhanced through a patient eighteen-month élevage, with little new oak and by avoiding aggressive lees stirring.

The wines that Jean-Philippe Fichet is making today have few rivals for their class in Burgundy, and they could be unmatched in their transparency and expressiveness. The Best is Yet to Come. As good as Fichet's wines have been up to now, the best lies ahead. His winemaking gets better each year, and so do his holdings, with a coveted piece of the iconic Meursault-Genevrières premier cru acquired in time for the 2006 vintage.

Jean-Philippe Fichet is one of Burgundy's greatest talents— and his wines are every bit as extraordinary as he is. It is an honor to represent this brilliant winemaker for the United States.

"Fichet is a genius, but is probably less well known than he deserves to be because he has no premier cru or grand cru vineyards in Meursault (although he used to have a bit of Perrières, which he lost in 1996 when the owner died). Instead, Fichet is the expert of bringing out the very best from village level ‘Lieux Dits’: name-designated vineyards that aren’t considered to be of premier cru status. With his meticulous viticulture and mastery of long élévage, he is able to fashion complex, ageworthy wines from these sites that put most peoples’ premier cru wines to shame." - Jamie Goode, Wineanorak.com

"'The 2012s will be good but they risk being opulent,' said Fichet. 'The wines have balance and depth, and no rot due to the small clusters and the spaces between the grapes. But the tiny crops are never the best: without enough juice in the grapes, the wines can be too powerful, or even heavy.' Fichet has done almost no settling of the must during the past three vintages and adapts his batonnage to the vintage. In 2012 he did what he described as very little batonnage (some wines were stirred just two or three times, and others up to ten)." - The Wine Advocate 8/2013

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Reviews

  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Referts, AOC
    Burghound
    Rating: 90-93 (6/15/2016)

    While reduction once again dominates the nose the fruit seems both ripe and dense. The natural class of a fine Puligny is immediately evident on the elegant and pure medium-bodied flavors that possess a highly seductive mouth feel that continues onto the citrus-tinged, long and impeccably well-balanced finale. As it almost always is this is easily Fichet's best wine in 2014.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc, Gruyaches, AOC
    Burghound
    Rating: 89-91 (6/15/2016)

    Reduction flattens the underlying fruit. Otherwise there is good richness to the generous yet refined, round and beautifully well-detailed flavors that culminate in a dry and notably stylish finish. I very much like the sense of energy here and this is worth a look.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc AOC
    Burghound
    Rating: 87-89 (6/15/2016)

    A classic Meursault nose features notes of hazelnut, pear and acacia blossom. There is fine richness and vibrancy to the still well-defined middle weight flavors that are presently on the tightly wound side but I suspect that this moderately complex effort will flesh out and thus be accessible after only a few years of bottle age. In sum, this is perfectly competent but not really distinguished.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc, Les Chevalieres, AOC
    Burghound
    Rating: 87-90 (6/15/2016)

    Here too the reduction is strong enough at present to dominate the nose. While there is certainly a fine sense of energy the mouth feel of the medium weight flavors is less fine than usual and there is less minerality as well on the acceptably complex and lingering finish. Wine is from extremely stony ground with very little top soil.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Bourgogne Blanc AOC
    Burghound
    Rating: 88 (6/15/2016)

    Wine is 100% from Meursault vines planted in soil with high clay content. The attractively textured and fresh flavors possess good mid-palate fat as well as reasonably good length on the slightly simple finish.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc, Les Chevalieres, AOC
    Vinous
    Rating: (92-94) (9/1/2015)

    (Fichet's vines are located in the middle and top of this higher-altitude village appellation): Pale yellow-green. Aromas of lime zest and lemon. Tactile, saline and intense, with terrific mineral cut to the flavors of crushed stone, petrol and white flowers. Boasts outstanding life in the mouth and finishes with Riesling-like limey minerality and superb perfumed lift. A great showing today: when Fichet nails a vintage, he makes some of the finest village wines of Meursault.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc, Gruyaches, AOC
    Vinous
    Rating: (91-93) (9/1/2015)

    (from 85-year-old vines; tasted at the end of its malolactic fermentation): Stone and orchard fruits complemented by wild herbs, flowers, anise and chlorophyll: smells concentrated. Then chewy, rich and deep on the palate, with a seductive sweetness perfectly buffered by strong saline minerality. Fine-grained, weightless and classically dry, showing a near-perfect sugar/acid balance. The youthfully clenched finish leaves behind notes of lime and stone. The crop level was a solid 45 hectoliters per hectare here in 2014 as there was little hail damage. Fichet's vines are situated at the southern end of this vineyard, which is essentially an enclave within Meursault Charmes but is not classified as premier cru.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Referts, AOC
    Vinous
    Rating: (90-93) (9/1/2015)

    Pure aromas of white peach and flowers. Smoky and glyceral-sweet but with lively acidity giving the middle palate a faint hard edge today. Finishes with attractive limey lift but the flavors seem hidden today. This youthfully disjointed wine, which is the highest in residual sugar of these 2014s at 1.6 grams per liter, is hard to assess today.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc AOC
    Vinous
    Rating: (88-90) (9/1/2015)

    Pale yellow-green. Subtle aromas of white stone fruits and dusty herbs. Quite rich but slightly edgy, with saline and stony nuances to the flavors of white peach and white flowers. Distinctly tight in the early going but finishes with noteworthy finesse.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Referts, AOC
    Vinous
    Rating: 91 (9/15/2016)

    Reticent scents of lime, orange zest, spearmint and flowers, with complicating hints of menthol and subtle brown spices. Then more yellow and round in the mouth, with a plumpness more like Meursault. Silky, plush and seamless, with lovely floral lift. This suave, mouthfilling wine finishes smooth and long, with lingering yellow peach and spice flavors and a touch of dusty minerality. Much more harmonious and easygoing in bottle than it was in barrel, and still with a faint impression of sweetness.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc, Les Chevalieres, AOC
    Vinous
    Rating: 92 (9/15/2016)

    Sexy pungent scents of lemon zest, chlorophyll, quinine, mace and lavender are high-pitched and pure. Dense but bracing and light on its feet, boasting terrific citrus peel energy and firm chalky minerality. Saline, weightless wine with terrific inner-mouth perfume and lift. With a subtle hint of sweetness, this outstanding, very long lieu-dit bottling does not come across as austere.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc, Gruyaches, AOC
    Vinous
    Rating: 91+ (9/15/2016)

    Musky white peach, pear, hazelnut, smoky oak and a whiff of anise on the nose. Impressively tight and imploded today, showing the mineral energy and thrust of the vintage. Lemon zest and lime blossom flavors convey lovely inner-mouth perfume and lift. Finishes dusty, saline and long, in need of patience.
  • Jean-Philippe Fichet 2014 Meursault Blanc AOC
    Vinous
    Rating: 89 (9/15/2016)

    More open-knit on the nose than the Auxey-Duresses, offering scents of white peach, lavender and fresh herbs. Broader and sweeter in the mouth as well, with ripe stone fruit flavors complemented by a note of spicy oak. Here the harmonious fresh acidity is a bit less biting than that of the Auxey-Duresses but the wine is every bit as long.